Thursday, June 08, 2006

Project 6 - Euro Headlights.

This one couldn't be simpler. Remove the ice cream scoop trim rings - held in by one screw at the bottom.






Take out the four screws holding the headlight assembly in. Throw in trash.



Install new ones. The Euro lights hang from the trim rings. The trim ring hangs from a little flange at the top of the headlight hole (if you have a better name for it, please share). It's visible in the picture above just in front of the black seal.

There is a single bolt that retains the whole thing. Simple. Takes 5 minutes a side if you use a power driver to get the screws out.

Paint is deferred to a later project wherein we'll paint the whole car. Stay tuned - this weekend we're installing a rear wing.

Another A/C update

OK. It blows cold. However, the pathetic little blower fan is totally inadequate to keep pace with Texas heat. I drove it to Dallas the other day. On the way there, it kept up fine, but it was earlier in the day and the car had been parked in the garage. On the way back, two days later, the car was heat soaked from the parking lot. The a/c managed to get the inside temp tolerable, but not truly cooled. I think it's a volume-of-air thing. I have ideas. My brother-in-laws, wife's father is a EE that know s motors. Maybe he can help me figure out how to make the thing spin faster. If that won't work, I could always fab up a new box with a bigger fan and motor. Dunno. It'll wait 'till later though.

Sunday, June 04, 2006

A/C update

After spending a few days in the Texas heat, I can now report that I'm seeing a consistent 55 degree vent temperature with 42 degree vent temps in the mornings. Not bad for a simple conversion, eh?

Project 4 and 5 - Transaxle Oil Change and Cleaning

The previous owner (PO) had taken the car to a dealership. Specifically, East Imports in Grand Rapids. These knobs charged him $143.90 to put Redline Synthetic Gear Oil in the transaxle. For those of you that don't know, the type of synchronizer that Porsche uses in its gearbox requires a little bit of friction to get 'em going. With the Redline in it, there's a lot of balkiness in the 3-2 downshift and the 4-3 downshift. Also, first gear felt pretty much unsynchronized. Now that I've swapped it out, 3-2 is still a little balky but it isn't as bad, the 4-3 is clean and first gear feels synchronized again.

It was really easy to do. First you pull the top plug (make sure you can put more in before you take any out), then pull the bottom plug. Easy peasy.


There was quite a bit of fur on the plug considering that the last oil change was only two months ago. I'm beginning to be able to heel and toe the 911 again. It's been many years since I drove one and I've become spoiled by the pedal placement in my Miata. Once I'm good at heel and toeing again, I won't care so much about the synchronizer situation. It's getting cleaner but I still have a ways to go.

For easier access, I removed the rear wheel. I also bought new jack stands that would go to 24". That's a lot easier to get under.

Here's the setup.


At this point I now have it full. There's little less than a liter left in the bottle. The tranny takes 3 liters so that passes the logic test. Seal it up.

Now, the keen viewer will notice that there's a significant amount of overspray on the suspension components in the picture above. Nice, eh? Nothing like a little attention to detail by your paint shop, huh? Once I repaint the car, I'll clean that up. I might do those new Wevo spring plates at which point, this stuff just goes away.

Project 5. Nasty, nasty Porsche.

OK. Once I got up underneath this thing for the first time, I realized how truly nasty the underside of this thing is. Take a look at the pictures from the a/c drier replacement. That's a huge pile of crap in there. Also look at the images above, really nasty.

Here's more...

Up on the jackstand in the alley.


Before.. Note the general color of the wheel well: black and icky.

After. Much better.

This is me after... I just threw everything I had on in the trash when I was done. Now my shower smells like GoJo.

While I was under there, I noticed some damage by previous garage's attempts at lifting the car.

First, they thought they'd lift it with floor pan. When that bent, they thought they'd try something different.

So then they bent the side sills. No telling where the numbskulls finally tried lifting it.

I think I can bang the floor boards back out with a big hammer and a flat board. As far as the sill boxes are concerned, I may not put them back on after the repaint - the better to effect my '75 RS look. The jury is still out on that one though.

Tune in next week when I attempt a rebuild of the pedal cluster.

Project 2 and 3 - Steering Bushing and Shifter Rebuild

When I first got it, it made terrible banging noises as I drove over bumps. The Steering wheel could also move up and down maybe a quarter of an inch or so. This seemed to be the source of the banging. So... I bought PN: 928-347-739-02-M100 from Pelican Parts. I followed Bob Tindel's instructions (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_Steering-bushing/911_steering_bushing.htm) and voila! no more banging. It feels great. I used an impact wrench to get the bolt off. I torqued it back up to factory spec's holding the steering wheel between my knees. No sweat.

Here's a pic of the car with the steering wheel out and the sleeve installed.



Project 3 was a shifter rebuild. OK. Not really. All I replaced was the sleeve bushing and the cup. I also bought new bushings for the shift coupler, but that's a different project.

This one was super simple. Unbolt all the junk from the floor, remove the five bolts that hold the shifter assembly down, remove the cup, remove the bushing. Pressing in the new bushing was sort of nightmarish and pointed out a severe lack of tools in the pressing and bushing dept. I'll need to rectify that.

I didn't take good pictures because I was flustered. But, we took a PVC end cap and placed it as a backstop on the support bracket. I then took a board and stuck the whole thing in a bench vise. That got it so far but not all the way. I then proceeded to stick lubed deep well sockets through the bushing, increasing the size one at a time, until the thing was all the way through. It worked out pretty well.

Here's the photos.


Weak, I know. I'll do better next time.

I put it all back together, but I didn't put the leather boot back on. I left it with the rubber bootie only. I buffed the shift lever to get off the glue from the leather shifter.

It shifts better but there's still a little slop in it. I think those shift coupler bushings need to be replaced. I'll do that in a bit. I also might replace it with one of the cool helicopter joints from Wevo.

That's it. On to the next project.